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NEW OLIVE OILERY MAY POP YOUR PIMENTO

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By TOM CHESEK

Even if you don’t think of yourself as a frantic foodie, chances are excellent that you’re likely to reach for the olive oil any time you make some noise with the pots and pans, be it a dab from an 8-ounce bottle or a dousing from a Mama Leone-sized aluminum can.

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But before you pluck that pale Progresso off the supermarket shelf, you should be aware that there exists a whole international “olive underground” of connoisseurs out there; a network of enthusiasts whose knowledge of (and romance for) the salty Mediterranean fruit rivals the religious zeal of the most dedicated vineyard-hopping oenophile.

And as you might have guessed, Red Bank is ahead of the curve in bringing this oleaginous subculture to our suburban doorstep, with the debut of a shop that’s described by a co-owner as “a store unlike any other on the East Coast.”

As a principal in Carter & Cavero Old World Olive Oil Company, Chris Ortiz brings the pedigree (his father hails from the village of Cazorla in the heart of Spain’s olive country) and the practical experience (he’s made olive oil his passion since taking over the family-owned mill back in the old country) to a venture in which he’s partnered with Monmouth County native Chris Wall and kin.

With Ortiz having recently returned to his home in Spain after overseeing the opening, the Wall family — Chris, Mercedes, Sofia and Christian — assumes responsibility for the day-to-day operations of the storefront at 19 Monmouth Street, a onetime art gallery with a floor-to-ceiling glass facade that displays the shop’s smart, airy design for the benefit of the passing epi-curious.

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Indeed, the vibe inside is more gallery than grocery, with a display of hand-painted pitchers, platters and bowls by Spanish artisan Alfarería Tito — the shop is said to be the exclusive outlet in the United States for these imported pottery creations — along with hand-carved wooden utensils, dishes and peppermills; oven-safe clay cookware; even a line of olive-based hair products from Provence that are guaranteed to pop your pimiento.

But it’s on the shelves along the walls of the store that you’ll find a variety of oils you may not have known existed. The selection of first-quality oils from Europe, as well as from award-winning organic groves in California, is housed in a series of metal urns with spigots. Customers are encouraged to sample the flavor and aroma of the wares with the help of blue glass “tasting cups,” the better to discern the nuances of a Greek Koroneiki, a French Phicoline, or a domestic Ascalano.

Thus enticed, a shopper who prefers, say, a Nocellara from Spain can then procure a custom-filled small ($8.00) or a large ($14.00) bottle on the spot to carry out (special burlap gift sacks are available for purchase) or ship to the olive lover in his or her life. For a few dollars more, one can get a pre-sealed bottle packed in an elegantly rustic wooden box.

And for those who can’t toss the salad without the vinegar, Carter and Cavero sells custom-filled bottles of some of Italy’s best, in varieties that range from a tangerine balsamic to a champagne vinaigrette; a dark and sensual fig balsamic is another particularly exciting option. Plans are also afoot for the shop to carry a line of premium pestos and jarred olives from all over the global grove.

So who, then, are Carter and Cavero? As Chris Ortiz explains, they’re names from the respective family backgrounds of the store’s owners; names that the partners felt gave “the feeling of a merger between
the old world and the new.”

Red Bank, says Ortiz, is a place where “people really expect to find unique gift items.” Clearly, he and Wall have drizzled something fresh into the mix.

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Dublin House Red Bank NJ
  • Stopped in & bought some oil & vinegar. Delicious! Great gifts for the holidays. Welcome to the neighborhood.

    Posted by: JW on November 29, 2007 at 2:46 pm | Permalink
  • survival of the fittest!!

    Posted by: fabu on November 30, 2007 at 12:23 am | Permalink
  • best of luck but talk about a realy narrow retail target. You ever wonder why you are the only one on the east caost? I look forward to the next store 19 Monmouth.

    Posted by: PK on November 30, 2007 at 10:41 am | Permalink
  • There's an olive oil store in the Short HIlls Mall & one in NYC. Last time I checked, they were both on the East Coast. Geez, a little harsh don't you think PK???

    Posted by: JW on November 30, 2007 at 10:56 am | Permalink
  • yes a little but it seems like a really, really bad idea. If they make it God bless 'em but as a former chef and food/cooking shop freak it seems like they will have a tough time at it.

    I hope to be wrong

    Posted by: pk on November 30, 2007 at 1:26 pm | Permalink
  • It's a very nice shop. The owner Chris Hall will happily tell you about different oils and vinegars and let you sample as many as you'd like. For a neophyte like me, it was a fun learning experience. What's more, there was no pressure to buy anything (and I didn't - this time).

    I was also happy to hear that the owners are trying to be "green". They sell several organic oils. The gift wine sacks are reusable and affordable ($3). They're also working with the Health Department to allow the bottles to be brought back for refilling.

    I think this shop will do fine in Red Bank.

    Posted by: Boris on November 30, 2007 at 2:47 pm | Permalink
  • wish them the best, but I would be surprised if they can hold on much past the holidays. Businesses like this usually do better where they get much more tourist type foot traffic.

    Posted by: Popeye on December 1, 2007 at 6:00 pm | Permalink
  • I also had the pleasure of stopping into this shop today, left with a bag full of goodies for myself and will return for gifts without a doubt. It sounds like Carter and Cavero have found some customers among the local restaurants. How nice it is to see local business supporting each other and likewise to C&C for their patronage of Zebu for their sampling bread.

    I was wondering about bringing bottles back for refills, nice to hear its in the works.

    Posted by: Jennifer B on December 1, 2007 at 10:26 pm | Permalink
  • The olive oil with white truffle is to die for!!!!!

    Posted by: Dana on March 21, 2008 at 1:24 am | Permalink
  • A fantastic store, great products, wonderful atmosphere, and a friendly, informed owner passionate about food, life, and the enjoyment of both. It is nice to be able to try the oils and vinegars before you buy them. You can't do that in the market. For anyone that likes to cook, entertain, or enjoy quality products….this store is for you and should be supported. I'm going back for more.

    Posted by: Michael M on March 27, 2008 at 9:58 am | Permalink

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