Silvio Fabbri has no patience for it.
“It starts with good steak,” says the owner of Umberto’s Pizzeria, on River Road in Fair Haven. “You can’t buy cheap ****.”
Silvio’s cheesesteak is a big one – big enough for two, if you’re a light eater. It consists of Italian bread toasted to a light crunch, onions deeply sautéed in olive oil, “good yellow American cheese, and good meat,” he says. $8.95.