Umberto’s Phlly cheese steak sandwich with onions. (Photo by John T. Ward. Click to enlarge)

When it comes to cheese steak, it’s often best not to look too closely or ask too many questions. Rubberband sandwich? Say no more.

Silvio Fabbri has no patience for it.

“It starts with good steak,” says the owner of Umberto’s Pizzeria, on River Road in Fair Haven. “You can’t buy cheap ****.”

Silvio’s cheesesteak is a big one – big enough for two, if you’re a light eater. It consists of Italian bread toasted to a light crunch, onions deeply sautéed in olive oil, “good yellow American cheese, and good meat,” he says. $8.95.