By JIM WILLIS
Some mornings are so chaotic that we’re too busy to fry up a few slices of real bacon. It goes without saying that a breakfast without bacon is hardly worth eating, and so some mornings, we skip breakfast.
Then noon will roll around, and we’ll want to claw back that missed meal at a place that serves breakfast all day, but we also want a proper lunch that is savory and hearty. The omelette is one of those dishes that can confidently wear its morning bathrobe and slippers to the lunch table, and we’ve found one of our favorite and most reliable omelettes at Tavolo Pronto in Fair Haven.
There, the bacon, ham, sausage and fresh mozzarella omelette ($8 and served with grilled slices of Italian bread) handily walks the line between hearty breakfast and a satisfying lunch. You don’t often see this combination of meat and cheese in an omelette, and Tavolo does a good job with the ratios and the filling sizes.
The bacon and sausage are chopped to just the right size, rendering your knife superfulous. The ham is sliced paper-thin and warmed through with slightly crispy edges, and the fresh mozzarella hangs in that perfect space between room-temperature soft and overly-melted goo.
Importantly, Tavolo makes its omelettes on a grill top. With a grill-top omlette, eggs are whisked together and set free to spread across the cooking surface into a perfectly thin base for the fillings. With no more than a couple of deft touches from a long-bladed grill spatula, the abstract and nebulous edges are folded inward to envelope the fillings, making the perfect omelette. Contrast this with your typical “omelette bar” omelette, where eggs are dumped into a too-small frying pan creating a dense, thick base for fillings — folded and then flipped, this “omelette” is hardly more than gussied-up scrambled eggs.
The omelette menu at Tavolo is thoughtful (e.g., broccoli rabe, grilled chicken, lentils and parmigiano), and while many of the options sound fantastic, we still keep going back for the bacon, ham, sausage and mozz combination.